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These simple steps can make the move smoother for your favorite feline or canine
companion. General Tips
Ask your veterinarian for a copy of your pet's medical history, and be sure
all shots are current.
When you move, take along a health certificate and a rabies vaccination
certificate. The health certificate, signed by your veterinarian, says your pet
is in good condition. The rabies certificate
states when and where your pet was vaccinated.
If you move across state lines, call or write the state veterinarian or State
Department of Animal Husbandry for laws on the entry of animals. Some states
require up-to-date rabies vaccinations. Hawaii requires a 120-day quarantine for
dogs and cats.
Shortly before the move, your pets may become nervous because of all the
unusual activity. Keep a close eye on them; stress may cause them to misbehave
or run off. Consider having them boarded during the most hectic days.
Make certain your pet is wearing proper identification and any required
license tags. After the move, give them time to adjust to the new neighborhood.
Don't let them roam freely until they learn where "home" is now. If you pet has
an ID implant, remember to update your contact information.
Just for Dogs
If possible, try to ease your dog into the new environment. If your move is not
a great distance, take your dog with you for visits to the new home prior to
your move. Let your dog sniff and
explore. After the move, take your dog for walks to get acquainted with its new
surroundings. Introduce neighbors as well as the mail carrier and other service
people who will come to the home regularly. Moving from the city to the suburbs,
or the reverse, may mean a transition in housebreaking procedure. The suburban
dog will find that city living means learning to relieve itself on the pavement
rather than grass. (Don't forget the pooper scooper.) A city-bred dog must
become accustomed to using a designated area in the suburban yard. Put your dog
on a fairly rigid schedule just as you would a puppy.
Just for Cats.
Introduce the cat to its new home one room at a time. For the first few days,
restrict it to one room. Surround it with familiar objects: feeding and water
bowls, toys, bed or blanket, and litter box (placed away from feeding bowls).
Gradually introduce it to other rooms. As your cat acclimates itself,
gradually move the feeding dishes and litter box to their permanent locations.
If your cat has been an outdoor cat in the country and moves to the city,
keeping it a strictly indoor cat is recommended. Traffic and elevators (if
you're in a high-rise) are among the hazards that can be life-threatening.
Another danger is the "high-rise" syndrome. Be certain that all windows have
secure screens to prevent your cat from falling. Conversely, if yours is a city
cat used to being indoors, proceed with caution if you allow the cat to go
outside in a suburban setting. An indoor cat is not used to traffic or to other
animals. And she may run away - some cats have been known to travel incredible
lengths to reach their former home. |